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Frequently Asked Questions
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Do you work from
photographs?
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Yes, in the long run it's
faster and less stressful on the animals and provides a constant point of
reference for color pallet, proportion, and possibly background pallet. Do I
work solely from pictures? No. Client commentary affects how much I use the
reference pictures I am given. I may wind up only using the photographs for
position, proportion, or markings. It may be that I pull a reference picture
to show the idea of a color pallet for a background and use nothing actually
from the picture.
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I have multiple pets and
I would like them all in the same piece. I went to a photographer but they
were unable to get the shot that I wanted. Can you help do that?
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I can do more than that. People
with multiple pet household can benefit from a artist even more than single
pet households. When I work with my clients my first concern is the safety
and the well being of their animals and the people involved. I would never
want an owner to take risks with their pets that they are uncomfortable
with. In a multiple pet shot I would recommend we take each pet separately,
work with them one a one on one basis. It's less stressful on the animal,
handlers, and produces a better reference picture to work from. When we have
pictures of each animal, we'll go back and pick which ones really exemplify
their personality, and if those can work out to a layout that fits the scene
that I am trying to create. The layout would be created, and it would need
to be approved by the client before any detailing would go into it.
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My pet is old, white
around the muzzle, if I wanted a piece done I would want them to be shown in
their prime.
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As pets age they do have some
physical changes that affect their appearance, and for better or worse
growing old is one of the things as pet owners we cannot escape. However we
do not have to remember forever the things that time brings. In a case such
as a senior animal the need for earlier reference pictures is a must. Coat
colors change, eyes age, as do facial features, some animals loose weight as
they age, or get arthritic which in geriatric animals does show in their
gait, as well as how they sit, or even lay down. Older animals have
special needs and less stress than youthful energetic animals. Also the
commentary from the client is even more important. Older animals rest more,
and getting the perfect pose my no longer be an option. In cases such as
these we'll use a pose from an older picture and a younger animal. This
gives us a reference on body build, and coat color. If all we're doing is a
head study then I would need a picture with effectively the proper
expression, which may or may not be the picture that I would be able to use
for coat color. The layout in cases such as these is less important
and it's more about the color pallet. So pictures that accurately show coat
color are a must.
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I have old pictures they
are cracked & discolored- Can you still use them?
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I would have to take it on a
case by case basis. I do have a few computer programs that I can run
photographs through to get a truer color, however there is always room for
error here and I would make sure the client approved of the color pallet
before proceeding.
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I don't have any good
pictures for you to use!
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Don't count on that. I think I
hear this most of all. For some reason I hear a lot of people say that I
must need really good pictures to work from. Sometimes I get the best
layouts from just candid pictures. Now there are cases where the pictures a
client provides do me little to good in coming up with an original work.
Does that mean I can't use them? No, it just really limits the options I
have in creating a unique layout.
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Can you give me some
advise is taking pictures for you to use?
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Lighting is important.
What ever kind of lighting you choose to have is going to affect the way
your camera perceives color. Most photographers would recommend going out
side on a party cloudy day. But in reality that's not always possible. Use a
well lit room, preferably take your pictures during the day so you get some
natural light. Be aware or backlight. That's to say a light source that is
behind your subject. It will create shadows which can distort color and
proportion.
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Focus Focus Focus!
Blurry pictures are really only good for a color pallet. Layouts based on a
blurry pictures may be disproportionate. If need be take your time and use
the guild your camera gives you. Generally speaking if your subject is in
the center of your site, your camera should focus on it. However some
cameras malfunction, don't react in time, have dirty lenses, or are set at
the wrong shutter speed.
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Get the whole subject in the
shot. Close up pictures are great, but hard to use when the picture is
missing half of the subject's face. The exception to this is if you only
want a head study. Then getting the body all included is a plus- but
ultimately unnecessary.
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Posing If your looking
for a certain pose- get an assistant. Seriously. The person directing the
animal should not be the person handling the camera. It's just too
much. Use treats, and toys, and friendly direction, and be patient. If you
want the picture of a calm animal you need to exercise that animal first.
Get the excess energy out, go for a walk, or play. It mentally stimulates
them and creates a receptive environment after which you will know if you
will be able to get the shot you are looking for. Have your "handler" use
direction, toys, treats and commands to get the position you desire.
This should always be a positive experience, if your getting
frustrated take a break and come back. It may take several sessions to get
the "perfect" shot.
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Don't shoot from above! You are taller standing up than your animals are (unless they are up on top
of something or are a larger animal such as a horse). Bend down and get the
shot from their level. With cats it may work better to have them up on
something. Ideally you are looking to be at their head height. With
especially small animals such as mice, rats, gerbils, guinea pigs, hamsters,
and ferrets; put them on a table and shoot just above the tabletop. This is
going to be very hard with very active animals such as ferrets which seem to
have two modes: on and off. Another place to try would be a bed where they
would have room to roam, and explore giving you time to line up a shot.
*Tip: with small animals it's often good to bait them with some treats. Put
them down in different spots and let them find them. It will make them pause
while they eat the treat and you will have a few seconds to get the shot. It
will take patience.
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Action Shots The hardest
of all shots.. For sure you need a fast shutter speed. If using a 35mm
camera use 400 speed film which will be able to adjust to lighting which can
be your biggest obstacle. Keep your center focus on your subject, that
should insure that it stays in focus. Have an idea of the action and the
angle you want before you begin. That will give you an idea of where you
want to be in order to accomplish this. You may have to do these sessions
several times before getting the shot you want. Be careful and be patient.
And never do something that would put your pet in a dangerous
situation or force it to do what you want. It took me months before I
figured out how to get some of the action shots I have of my ferrets
playing, and to be honest sometimes it's just luck. Don't get discouraged.
The more you work with your pets and practice with your camera the better
you will become.
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Multiple Pets: Some of
whom have passed on, some who are alive, owners who have intentions of
continuing to own pets over the years.(AKA: the Progressive Piece)
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This is an excellent example of
why anyone would hire an artist and not a photographer to tackle this! In a
case such as this we (the client and myself) would need to sit down and
discuss the parameters of what they need this piece to be able to do. In
some cases it could be as simple as being able to add pets in as they
acquire new members to their family. In some cases the client would like it
to act as a living record of their pets. In cases such as this it takes
extensive planning during the layout process. This would start with a record
of all past pets which will be included. Pictures of these pets (which are
no longer around) are the foundation of the piece. The choice poses would be
determined. Next we move onto current pets, which pictures/poses we are
using or if we need to take more pictures to make the layout continue to
work. Next we take into account what other kind of pets the client has
intentions of acquiring. This determines how much positive and negative
space needs to be used in the final layout. Lastly would be the
background. Backgrounds in these pieces should be simple. No real need for
props and extras which can date a piece making it's longevity null and void.
The client would then determine how they would like pets who have passed on
to be distinguished. This is usually a simple special effect such as a white
aura around the pet, softening the detail, changing the color pallet to more
neutral tones, or simply glazing the subject in white. This does not
eliminate it from the piece merely softens the tones used to make it part of
the design. As time goes on and pets are acquired and pass on, the piece is
sent back to me for the appropriate adjustments.
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Any further questions please
feel free to contact me directly and I will get back to you just as soon as
I can.
Thank You- Alicia McNally
morning.hawk@hotmail.com
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